Care Guide

Crested Gecko (Correlophus ciliatus)

Welcome to the Paws and Claws guide to one of the most rewarding reptile companions! Crested geckos are famous for their "eyelashes," docile temperament, and ease of care. Native to the rainforests of New Caledonia, these arboreal (climbing) geckos are a perfect choice for both beginners and experienced keepers.

  • Lifespan: 15–20 years in captivity.
  • Average Size: 6–10 inches (total length, including tail).

1. Housing & Enclosure Size

Because they are arboreal, vertical height is more important than floor space. Always ensure the enclosure is secure, as they are expert escape artists.

Life Stage Minimum Enclosure Size
Hatchling (up to 4 months) 8" x 8" x 12"
Juvenile (4–12 months) 12" x 12" x 18"
Sub-Adult/Adult (12+ months) 18" x 18" x 24" (or taller)

Essential Decor & Environment

  • Climbing: Provide plenty of sturdy branches, cork bark, and bamboo. They need "perches" to feel secure.
  • Hiding: Use fake foliage (vines/plants) to create a dense canopy. They feel safest when they can hide behind leaves.
  • Substrate: Paper towels are best for juveniles to monitor waste. Adults can use coconut fiber, sphagnum moss, or bioactive tropical soil mixes. Learn more about bioactive set-ups at The Bio Dude.

2. Diet & Nutrition

Crested geckos are omnivores that thrive on a complete, powdered diet mixed with water.

  • Commercial Diet: Use a high-quality, pre-mixed crested gecko powdered diet (e.g. Pangea, Repashy). This should be their primary food source.
  • Insects: Supplement with dusted, gut-loaded insects (crickets or dubia roaches) 1–2 times a week to provide hunting enrichment.
  • Feeding Schedule: Offer fresh food 3–4 times per week. Remove leftovers after 24 hours.
  • Water: Offer a shallow water bowl with clean water. To avoid bacteria build-up, change water daily.

3. Gender Care & Reproduction

Male Care

  • Solitary: Males are highly territorial and must be housed alone. If two males are kept together, they will fight, leading to serious injury or tail loss.

Female Care & Egg Laying

  • Solitary: Females should be housed alone.  Some experienced keepers will house 2-3 females together in very large enclosures will ample hiding space and constant monitoring for fights.  Cohabitating females is not recommended for new keepers and pet owners
  • Egg Production: Mature females may lay eggs even without a male present (these will be infertile).
  • The Lay Box: Always provide a "lay box" (a small container filled with slightly moist spagnum moss or tropical substrate) inside the enclosure. This gives the female a safe, humid place to dig and deposit eggs, preventing her from becoming "egg-bound," which is a life-threatening medical emergency.
  • Health Check: Ensure breeding females receive extra calcium (D3) to support egg production.

4. Environment: Temperature & Humidity

  • Temperature: Maintain a range of 72°F–78°F (22°C–26°C). They do not need high heat; temperatures above 82°F can be dangerous and cause stress.
  • Humidity: Keep humidity between 60% and 80%. Mist the enclosure once or twice a day, allowing it to dry out slightly before the next misting to prevent mold.

5. Understanding Tail Dropping (Autotomy)

You may be surprised to learn that crested geckos possess a natural defense mechanism called autotomy—the ability to intentionally "drop" their tails if they feel threatened, stressed, or are handled too roughly.

  • Does it grow back? No. Unlike some other lizards, a crested gecko will not regrow its tail. Once it is gone, your gecko will become a "frog butt" for the rest of its life. While they look a little different, this is purely aesthetic, and your gecko will live a perfectly healthy, long, and active life without it.
  • What to do if it happens: If you find your gecko’s tail in the enclosure, do not panic. The tail may wiggle for a few minutes; this is a distraction tactic designed to fool predators.
    • Keep it clean: The wound needs to heal cleanly to prevent infection. Immediately remove any loose substrate (like coconut fiber or moss) from the enclosure and replace it with clean paper towels.
    • Monitor the wound: Check the tail stump daily. It should dry up and scab over quickly.
    • Keep it simple: Avoid handling your gecko for a few days to minimize stress and let the area heal.
    • Topical care: If the wound looks irritated, you can gently dab a tiny amount of diluted Betadine or a plain antibiotic ointment (e.g., Neosporin without pain relief) onto the stump using a cotton swab. Never use ointments containing pain relievers (like lidocaine), as these can be toxic to reptiles.
    • When to see a vet: If the wound appears red, swollen, oozing, or smells bad, these are signs of infection. In this case, schedule an appointment with an exotic veterinarian.

6. Want to Learn More?

We encourage all our customers to keep learning! For deeper dives into husbandry, morphs, and advanced care, check out these trusted industry leaders:

  • Pangea Reptiles: An incredible resource for specialized diets and expert articles.
  • Lil Monsters Reptiles: A fantastic resource for learning about genetics, morphs, and high-quality breeding practices.
  • The Bio Dude: A amazing resource for learning how to set up bioactive enclosures and purchasing supplies for setup.
  • Dubia: A go-to place for me to buy food, bugs, enclosures and more

Disclaimer: This guide is a baseline for care. Always observe your specific animal's behavior and consult with an exotic veterinarian for medical concerns. Quality care leads to a long, happy life for your Paws and Claws companion!